Papeete to Lautoka

If you are in search of paradise, don't expect it to be easy to get there! It's a long old haul to get to Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia. And once you are there, Papeete itself is by no means the most magical spot - you need to venture forth to see the other islands, and luxuriate in the turquoise lagoons, white sand beaches fringed with palm trees, rugged mountain peaks and coral reefs. Expensive and remote, these islands have maintained their uncommercial magic, with excellent hotels and a warm Polynesian welcome everywhere you go.

Raiatea, the second largest of the Society Islands, played a vital role in the development of Polynesian culture; it was from this island that settlers departed for Hawaii and New Zealand over a millennium ago. The island feels wilder than Tahiti, with steep, jungle-covered mountains, cascading waterfalls and ancient Polynesian temples.

Bora Bora is the very definition of idyllic, a diminutive Polynesian island dominated by rainforest-clad volcanic peaks, overlooking an electric blue lagoon ringed by coral reefs. The beaches and over-water bungalows are particularly popular with honeymooners, and the clear waters of the lagoon are perfect for snorkelling.

Surrounded by kaleidoscopic reefs, white sand beaches and beautifully blue waters, Rarotonga is exactly what most of us picture when we think of the South Pacific. The lagoon is ideally suited to snorkelling and scuba diving, while the island itself is home to ancient sacred sites and pretty coral churches.

The sleepy island of Aitutaki is big on natural beauty, thanks to its stunning reef-enclosed lagoon. It’s also a deeply spiritual place: in the village of Arutanga you’ll find the oldest church in the Cook Islands, dating back to 1829, and services here are a spellbinding spectacle, with hymns featuring unaccompanied four-part harmonies.

Palmerston is a sleepy coral atoll with an unusual history, home to just three families, all descended from a single man. William Marsters, a ship’s carpenter from Gloucestershire, arrived on the island in 1863, and fathered a number of children with three different Polynesian wives.

Levuka, on the little island of Ovalau, was the first capital of Fiji, and it was here that the Deed of Cession was signed in 1874, formalising the British annexation of Fiji. The port’s historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a number of well-preserved buildings dating back to the late 19th century.

Leleuvia is a small coral island, home to a laid-back resort and not much else. The colourful reef is easily accessible from the island’s western beach, home to marine life including tuna, barracuda, manta rays and turtles, while bird species recorded here include sacred kingfishers, swallows and orange-breasted honeyeaters.

Lautoka is Fiji’s second largest city, known as the ‘Sugar City’ due to its important role in the local sugarcane industry. The waterfront area is pleasant enough, but we’d recommend using Lautoka as a jumping off point to visit some of the smaller surrounding islands, or the forests and waterfalls of the interior.